40th B'day Excursion-Day 3 (Sun!)

On Day 3 of cycling from Seattle to Portland (STP) we were greeted by a warm, sunny morning (our prayers were answered!). We were already half-way through our trip (in terms of mileage), but the next 3 days promised to be slow and easy 35-mile jaunts. In fact this section of the STP route, Chehalis to Kelso proved to be the most appealing stretch of the entire trip. Rolling hills, deserted stretches of country roads, quaint small towns (Napavine), and quirky tributes to put a town “on-the-map” (e.g. the World’s largest egg in Winlock!).
Despite another flat (James) and a broken chain (Anthony), we had a fantastic day. Note, good equipment and tools (in this case, a spare master link which I carried the first time on this trip) is the difference between a quick 15-minute fix, and a significant wrench in your plans.
Just after midday, we landed at Hattie’s in Castle Rock: a classic, small town diner that boasted great burgers and milk shakes (we were satiated). We cruised the last 10+ miles into Kelso, then arrived at the Red Lion Hotel. That evening, we were in for a surprise. We walked over to the Kelso “fun center”, where we had a raucous good time bowling (disco lights and all), playing glow-in-the-dark mini-golf, and ordering pizza and wings to go. Music was appropriately themed too, with classics by Journey, Van Halen and REO Speedwagen, took me back to my youth. Ironically, my kids love "Classic Rock" too (thanks to the Guitar Hero product managers!) Though the food in Kelso left much to be desired, the fun center activities were unexpected and refreshing – not soon to be forgotten.

40th Birthday Excursion - Day 2

Planning our cycling trip from Seattle to Portland (STP), I had forewarned my family that Day 2 would be the most tedious and challenging stretch of our ride (65+ miles). What we didn’t expect was being saddle sore, and the onslaught of God’s wrath - generally reserved for January (versus end of May).

Despite a humble beginning cycling through Puyallup (including a one-mile walk uphill – the most difficult on the STP route), torrents of rain, hail and wind arrived during the most treacherous segment of our trip: a 15+ mile, two-lane highway along the south-side of Fort Lewis.

I had forewarned my family about the highway (boasting a meager 18-inch wide side strip), but the weather made it downright perilous. Large, 18-wheel semi-trucks roared past us, hail pelted us, and we were wet to the bone (notwithstanding ‘water-proof’ shells). Sadly, we were geared for summer cycling – with the hail, temperatures dropped into the 40’s: it was COLD.

Good fortune carried us safely to Yelm, where we had the reprieve of a great cycling trail (off the highway) and some respite from the rain. Notwithstanding’s Caleb’s flat tire (#2 – no worries, 3 more spares), we made it to a great off-the-trail diner in the middle of nowhere (Sonja’s Café: Rainier, WA). The owner greeted Janelle and the boys with warm towels to dry off, and an order of hot cocoas was placed immediately. We ate our fill (burgers for the boys, and a bento box for James/Janelle); it was a great find.

With only 25 miles left to Chehalis, we thought the worst was behind us. Then, God unleashed the rains and floods – seriously 3+ inches of water rushing across the roads as we cycled into Centralia. Either we were in a state of delirium induced by hypothermia, or perhaps it was the impossibility of it all, but we all started laughing hysterically. ;)

A few miles prior to our hotel Caleb graced us with another flat tire (#3 – no worries, 2 more spares). We unpacked and enjoyed the reliable service offered by the Chehalis Holiday Inn Express, including a quick dip in the pool to refresh ourselves. Afterwards, we walked downtown to enjoy a wonderful dinner at The Shire. We are ‘food snobs’ and must admit to being pleasantly surprised finding the Shire in Chehalis – we enjoyed salmon, short ribs, lamb, wine (Oregon Pinot Noir) and excellent service. It was a great nightcap, to a seemingly impossible day. In consideration for my sons’ efforts, I agreed to buy them new wetsuits (seriously); and I promised Janelle the next 40 years of my life (and fair weather cycling trips in our future). ;)

We fell into bed, and chuckled as we watched Uncle Buck before dozing off to sleep.

bye-bye Florence.

Its our last week in Florence. I cannot believe we are at this threshold, the tail end of our year-long adventure abroad. In case you hadn't heard: last spring we sold our home, cars and put our belongings in storage; we climbed a plane, landed in Amsterdam and assembled 4 bikes. Two panniers apiece, we cycled from Amsterdam to Paris, took the chunnel to London and finished the 2009 summer with a week-long soccer camp (for the boys) in Manchester City, England.

Then, we flew to Florence. Mid-August, we rented a temporary apartment, inserted the boys in an Italian school (aka full immersion) and they tried out/played soccer for a premier club. Over the first few months, James and I dealt with paperwork (many lines, many offices, many hours) for permission to stay. We toured every corner of Florence and much of Tuscany. Throughout the year, we had 3 week visits from both sets of grandparents (Dec, Jan) and my brothers' family (cousins!).

In February 2010, James returned home [early] to look for a job. For four months, February-May, Janelle and the boys stayed in Florence while James hopped couches and interviewed his way around Seattle. He recently landed a job, and is joining the boys and Janelle for a last 'hurrah.' We will all say goodbye to Florence on June 14, then take a road trip together: Lucca, Parma, Modena, Rimini then to Milan for our return flight to Washington state (June 23).

Our year was full of highlights and discovery, challenges from popped tires to circus dogs, logistics to art and wine and festivals, learning a new language (boys did, Janelle didn't, James already knew Italian) and so much more. I don't know where to begin, none of us can fathom how this year has changed and molded us; we will be digesting and re-integrating and reflecting for months---and years---to come.

James is working on canonizing our adventure in book-form; during our year, he did a fantastic job writing a post called 'top 5' for each month. Janelle 'canonized' much of the adventure here at familyfrolics, and also on her food blog, talkoftomatoes. The boys both kept journals, with lots of sketches and postcards, and observations along the way.

2009
May: packed up lives state-side, boarded plan and landed in Amsterdam for a week.
June: cycling across Holland (windmill counting begins, baa-ing like sheep not uncommon)
July: cycling across Holland, Belgium, France.
Aug: London 10 days, Manchester United Soccer Camp, fly to Florence, swimming, soccer tryouts.
Sept: choose apartment, boys' school in Florence; tourist activities.
Oct: 3 week return state-side (unplanned---required for paperwork); visit Montana cabin, family.
Nov: daily life in Florence
Dec: 3 week visit from James' folks (Lucca, Orvieto, Civita, San Gimignano, Florence); Christmas festival

2010
Jan: 3 week visit from Janelle's folks (Rome, Florence)
Feb: James returns to states; road trip: southern Tuscany/Elba Island (hot springs!)
Mar: daily life in Florence
Apr: 3 week visit from Janelle's brother/sister/nephews (road trips: Chianti, Cinque Terre, Venice)
May: daily life in Florence

I could put 50 links to the above months, but if you are curious and want to read more: in the left hand column there are archives by dates, click on any month to see posts for that month.


Our final month abroad [in Italy], June 2010 includes: finishing up the soccer season, saying goodbye at school, closing our accounts at the apartment, shipping home belongings, gearing up for the World Cup (what color will you wear?) and a final road trip (more about that soon).

By the way... just because we are returning state-side by NO MEANS means our frolicking is over. On the contrary we already have plans to visit a cabin in Montana, tour around our home city of Seattle, join up with soccer teams and pop up to Vancouver BC, Canada... all before the end of July.

Re-entry will no doubt be a whirlwind, and certainly we will appreciate the nuances of 'reality bites.' But even if we are sad that this chapter---this year long adventure abroad---is coming to a close, by no means will we stop embracing life to the fullest, at every possible frolicking moment.

Volcanic Eruption: cousins waiting in Milan...

When you are a serious frolicking, breaking routine, seeking adventure, aiming for discovery person/family... not everything always goes as planned. Stories emerge, character is tested, and sometimes you get a chance to make the most of a beyond-your-control-imposed-opportunity. Like say, a volcano eruption in Iceland?

As you know our 'cousins' visited us for 3 weeks---a longer trip than they had ever taken. It was fantastic; we toured Florence and Tuscany, soaked in hot springs, ate too much and tasted regional wines, hiked through Cinque Terre and crossed canals in and around Venice. A few days before their intended departure back to the states, the infamous volcano erupted. Here is the gist of an email I wrote home to friends and family on their departure date (which was supposed to be MON April 19 at 8am from Milan to London to Seattle).

 

Okay here is the status: my internet has been down since our return from Venice TH (April 15). So we kept going to a nearby Italian Diner to gain access and try to read through the airline stuff... to see if their flights were still 'confirmed'. Even SUN (April 18) by 11 am, their MON 8am flight was still a 'go.' Which meant, we were still on track to rent a van and make the trek to Milan (the AVIS car rental shop closed SUN at 1pm, so we needed to make a decision).

Fortunately, James and I had already reserved a huge van---with the intent of hand-delivering the 'cousins' from Florence to the Milan airport (they had agreed to bring our bikes back to the states---on British Air it is free to check in one bike box per passenger---so we thought we were golden in getting those darn things home. In an effort to say 'thanks for taking the trouble' and to make the 'bike box transition' super easy, we decided to rent a van and deliver them to the door of the airport). Bottom line: we had a van reserved, which turned out to be a big deal, since the line at AVIS was out the door with people who were trying to rent vehicles in lieu of grounded airlines... many of whom were turned away).

Sunday is the only day you are allowed to drive into the city center (of Florence), so that day we were able to rent the van, drive to our flat and fill it with four bike boxes. I then parked it about a mile away as we waited to depart later that night (we planned to drive between 2am-6am and deliver then to the airport 6am MON). 

Around 5pm James called to let us know the flights had been canceled (ugh!). We started to rally: [my brother] Keith and I hit the phone shop for an extra phone (closed), then the cash machine (always open ready to drain accounts) and finally, tucked into 2 glasses of fantastic rosso vino while sitting at a Diner for our token internet access---to update folks, ask favors, and put [my husband back in the states] James on the task (in background to all this Janelle is calling James, the landlord and everybody's brother trying to get at-home internet access---which didn't happen. Though by late Monday we had 1 connected computer. So when I wrote this email I was again, sitting at the Diner with a hard-earned glass of wine).

So no flight: do we drop them at a hotel in Milan or keep them in Florence? 

We knew we were lucky to have a means of transportation to an airport (my Aunt was stuck in Paris, then got a flight out of Barcelona and was still trying to figure out how to get to Barcelona). So we voted to take this window of opportunity to get them near the Milan airport. We had no idea if it would be 1 night or 4 or when they could fly again... so we decided if they could get a hotel they would go. James came through: he rallied for hours and landed the KC clan at a fantastic hotel within a mile of the airport---shuttle, pool, breakfast (every little thing helps when you are frustrated!!!)... and they had precedence to extend their stay if need be.

Meanwhile, Janelle's phone had minutes (barely); we used it while driving from Florence to Milan. We ate some pizza then popped into the bike-laden van and left Florence 830pm. It is about a 4 hour drive to Malpensa airport. James called while we were en route---we learned that it really might involve acrobatics to actually get them home (plus their tickets were frequent flyer combined with full-fare etc. which makes it even more difficult to organize/reschedule). James had an agent helping them, and called the airlines frequently. My brother used the hotel computer and created a gmail account (their normal email account was not accessible at the time).

With airports still closed, airlines don't have a lot of answers. You can fly out sooner if you want to spend more money, or perhaps wait a little longer and ride the wave of resolutions from your carrier. That said, the 'cousins' will likely be in Milan for 4-5 days (update: until SUN April 26). Keith can speak to their plans, but it could range anywhere from trying to stay put and relax to trekking into Milan or trying to catch parts of Italy they haven't yet seen (though tricky with limited transportation). There is a chance they could get home sooner if they split up the foursome... but that isn't always fun to maneuver either.

I will say: we had a FANTASTIC time with them and are all so bummed the tail end has erupted with this anti-climactic mess. We made sure Sam and Jack had a few good books to read; no doubt they will try to make the best of a bad situation. We will keep you posted...

The [smallish, inconsequential yet mildly humorous] tail/tale end of this ever-evolving and far from finished saga:

We realized them having bike boxes to deal with would not be a good idea. Who knows where they would fly out of, if together, if staying an extra night somewhere else... so it became obvious I needed to drive the big-aXX van home and bring the four bike boxes home. At this point Italian logistics kick in: you can only drive in city proper on Sundays and before 730am (or after 730pm). I had the van rented until just noon on Monday. It was about 130am and I knew if I didn't turn around and drive straight back to Florence it would mean Anthony and Caleb and I would be hand-carrying, trip after trip, awkward bike boxes 3/4 of a mile to our apt... then still get the van back on time (fortunately they didn't go to school that morning since both bikes had flats... angry condo Italian owner stuff... but no matter). 

SO I got back in the van with Cindy's stash of 1 coke, 1 snickers and a fruit bar and headed for Florence (tell her I ate/drank them all!). I made it until about 300am when I was getting super tired. I pulled over and slept for an hour (guardian angel tickled my face for waking...). At 4am I drove another 2 hours and landed in Florence around 600am.

Because it was before 730am I could pull right to my door, open and dump the four large bike boxes. Of course just after I dumped the fourth box: a big garbage truck pulled up behind me. So I walked over, apologized for blocking the tiny pedestrian-only street and they said no prob, how many minutes [should we expect to wait---because Italians don't mind waiting. It is quite cool]? And I looked at them with tired sheepish mommy-bear eyes and said "only 4 minutes if you help me carry up my boxes."

And so, they did.

And it only took 4 minutes. Then I jumped in my larger than life caravan and navigated the widest streets I could find (Keith, you should be rolling your eyes here;))) and made my way back to the garage (parked it in the last spot available!). And even managed to make sure (Dutch in me be proud) the tank was completely empty so it would be worth my money for them to fill it up at the rental place... sigh. And since my bikes are boxed and now safely back where they started---and not by the garage---I walked the mile back across Florence to our home in the wee hours of the morning, taking int the quiet, familiar feel of this lovely city;)... opened the door, climbed over a rather-large pile of bike boxes and slept.

Kisses to all... with a bit of a wine-smudge.

1 day road trip

This little road trip was my own doing.

I already mentioned to you: my evening of cooking at an agriturismo.

What I haven't yet shared is the views on the way. Old idiom: it isn't about the destination it is about the journey. I find it is hard to put into practice; I am first in line to be busy cleaning, organizing and thinking about the 'next thing'. But this time I really was smiling-while-driving.

On my way to the agriturismo, I used the main highway driving south from Florence, then popped off near Chiusi and Terme di Chianciano. (I have some odd draw to terme; if you recall the boys and I visited no less than 5 on our 6 day Tuscan road trip). I am intrigued with all the sulfur swagger under vast stretches of Tuscan terrain.

I peeked into the Terme Sensoriali (in Terme di Chianciano); Italians have long adhered to the restorative properties of Bagni (though I am learning some are for bathing, others for 'drinking the water' and breathing). This spa would no doubt heal some part of you: it is a spa experience based on the 5 elements etere, aria, fuoco, terra, acqua AKA ether, air, fire, earth, water. This time, I simply peered in the windows and went on my way (find www.termechianciano.it and/or www.termesensoriali.it).

For now, I feel quite satisfied hunting down and seeking out the 'public' baths that are less poised and planned but authentic, free, outside---no doubt with healing properties of their own. When cousins arrive at the end of this week---we will whisk them off to one such set of hot springs (Petriolo).

I have a huge pamphlet (from the agriturismo Sant' Egle) all about the Maremma region of Tuscany (www.lamaremma.info and www.amiataturismo.it). I have spent time in this region both in February and March: finding terme in Saturnia and San Casciano, enjoying agriturismos, Etruscan tombs and cliff-hanging cities like Pitigliano, Scansano and Sorano. The hills are rolling and so, so green I cannot begin to describe them. It is gorgeous, and a little bit off the normal tourist-beaten path. I like that.

On my drive home from the agriturismo, I snapped some photos and at one point followed my nose down a dirt road to La Foce (www.lafoce.com). La Foce is in the Orcia valley in south-east Tuscany; it boasts an incredible garden and restored farmhouses---with pools---for rent. It adheres to the Slow Food Movement (in case you wanted to know); my favorite part is that this property lies on such a beautiful road, tucked in lush valleys and near some of my favorite places: Sienna, Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano. 

Cortona, Greve in Chianti

One of the things we love about the boys having soccer games around Tuscany, is that it forces us to rent cars and get better acquainted with Italy. Even while staying in Florence, there are times that we just feel like curling up and contributing to the concept of home-bodies. But alas games are scheduled and inevitably we rent a car, make plans and end up with more photos, stories and experiences. Even if it is cold and rainy and mishaps occur... we still never regret getting out and about.

This Sunday Anthony had a game just outside of Montepulciano. (I say this simply, but in reality stating the location of a game involves renting a car, retrieving the car via bike, phone calls in Italian, meeting up with team, going to the wrong field, depending on GPS, forgetting umbrellas, secretly venerating REI for selling Smartwool socks and undergarments, finding nearby espresso... and watching good soccer).

This past Sunday was bone-chilling cold, and impressively foggy. Which... keeps most wise tourists away. Actually, the cold and time of year means we often have tourist-laden cities to ourselves. Our visit to Cortona was nearly uncanny. It was so foggy, devoid people milling about, many shops were closed and parking was easy. We still got a great sense of the city, found soul-warming coffee and enjoyed a fabulous, cozy lunch. We visited one of the churches, found ceramic shops and walked up and down a number of streets. We saw about a third of the city, and hope to return again someday.

Greve in Chianti is a treat. It is the icon city of the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany (Chianti has 8 different regions, and the Chianti Classico region is the best-known, not only because they have fabulously marketed their wines, but they are the only region allowed to boast that fabulous black rooster motif). And Greve is tourist-ready: full of impressive shops, piled with souvenirs of the Chianti region, a world-class butcher shop (macellaria) and a line-up of restaurants worthy of a visit. We arrived a bit late to the city, but had just enough time to poke into the butcher, peek into some wine and clothing shops and get a sense of the city.

Oh, and did I mention we almost ran into a small group of wild boar? My favorite new animal to eat and adore are cinghiale. Our new family favorite animal is easily the infamous, Tuscan wild boar. They make the best salami, prosciutto, sausage, ragu, sauce... and entertainment. It was awesome to see 4 of them jet across the road in front of our little car.

Lucca, Civita, Orvieto, Montalcino

Yes four cities! We are just now realizing how much we packed in when Oma and Opa were here. Besides soaking up the Christmas festivities, and fitting in some great museums (Bargello, Pitti Palace, the Duomo Museum) and seeing some glorious churches (Trinita, Duomo, San Ferdinando), we also managed to drive to a few cities. Here are the highlights:

Lucca.
I confess, our memories of Lucca are influenced by walking around with very cold, very wet feet. It snowed! And it was very slushy and well, we don't have great shoes for snow. But despite the numb toes, we loved Lucca. Holiday lights adorned the city, a little ice rink was set up in the piazza, we popped our heads into 3 churches and generally followed our noses. I was taken with the 'cute' shops which means kitchen goods and ceramics... we ate a cozy mid afternoon meal, found a full-blown Christmas market (and bought sweaters for 10 euros each), window shopped during the passegiata and then warmed our toes by the car heater all the way home (while snacking on chocolate).

Civita di Bagnoregio.
Ugh, how do I even start? For James, this is one of the most nostalgic cities in all of Tuscany... Italy... the world. He spent two summers in this antiquated, raindrop-sized hill-top town (seriously---the only access is by a footbridge). The first, as an architecture student for University of Washington; the second, as a graduate assistant for the same program. This visit was my first, as well as a first for Anthony, Caleb and James' parents. It was small, quaint, surreal. It was easy to imagine his affection for this little hilltop town.

Orvieto. 
We have visited Orvieto before, and loved it just as much the second time around. We revisited some favorite spots (Duomo, ceramic shops, streets); we stopped in too many ceramic shops, the boys bought rubber band guns, and went to mass at the Duomo.

Montalcino.
I have been craving a visit to this town: so far, it makes my favorite wines in all of Italy. We have tasted the gamut (not super-high end, but a variety per se) of wines from around Tuscany and I find this region's wines to be consistently sublime. The Brunellos are expensive and worth it. The Rosso's from Montalcino are more obtainable and still a safe bet for satisfying your palate. Wines aside, the town was lovely! We walked the wall on top of the tower, peered through streets, and found some lovely shops and a nice dinner.

En route.
I couldn't leave out our little side trips. En route from Orvieto to Montalcino, James was magnetized to a tower a top a hill: so we took a tiny detour in the name of discovery. Sadly, the last little gate to the tower was closed. But the tiny town was adorable, full of little nativity displays, adorable small streets and shops and wreaked of authenticity (what is a tourist?). We think Radicofani was a Medici strong-hold.

We were enthralled with the Tuscan landscapes, stopping on more than one occasion to snap photos. We rolled down windows to oooh and ahhhh. There it was: the picture in your mind of Tuscan landscapes, with rolling green hills, cyprus trees lining the sky and a token villa standing on top of it all.

Among the many detours and photo-ops, we also stopped [all too briefly] at BATHS. I will be honest, it is a goal of mine to visit 'baths.' There are token hot-springs, resorts-with-hot-springs, cities-boasting-hot-springs speckled across Tuscany. And I mean to visit at least one while here. And by visit I don't mean the 20 minute photo-op-drive-by-wistful-yearning-see-how-the-rich-live we achieved this time... It was beautiful, romantic, with paths strewn about for when you chose to stroll instead of bath. And beautiful cafes for when you decided to dine instead of bathe... Very nearly the definition of luxury; some day I will have to return to Bagno Vignoni for an overnight visit.

Sometimes we are busy with school and career routines, writing, fretting, doing this or that. But despite real or imagined pressures on our lives (and trust me, there are both), we never regret a day trip, overnight trip, spontaneous diversion or even a simple 30 minute walk out our own door. And often that is reason enough to frolic.


If you want to see more, peek at our photo albums:

Lucca
Orvieto, Civita, Montalcino

We did it!

We made it!

We made it from Amsterdam to Paris, to London and Manchester and have landed---safely---in Florence, Italy.

The boys had a splendid time at Manchester United Football Camp; we were all pretty excited to see Old Trattford (stadium where Manchester United practices and plays home games). While the boys were at camp all week, James and I caught up with each other, bought a computer (ours had broken a few weeks ago), enjoyed restaurants in Manchester (especially Piccolini) and set up our Fantasy Premier Leagues. (The leagues are online fantasy soccer leagues, where you play against others in the league, by picking your own team, managing trades and watching certain players all year. We set up a family league for both English Premier and Serie A).

We packed up the bikes and left Manchester; 1 rental van, 2 airplanes, 1 train and 2 small bike rides later---we were at our place in Florence. We decided to rent an apartment for the last 2 weeks of August. That way we can adjust to our new home city, get a sense of neighborhoods by day and night, and finalize proximity of the boys' school and calcio (aka soccer).

Caleb has a wee injury on his heel, so these first few days of Florence have been via biciclette (bikes). Not a bad way to get oriented, and to get a sense of how long rides would take from A to B to D and K. Besides, we will be getting around via foot and bike, so we better get used to it.

So far it has been around 100 degrees Fahrenheit and we are learning to love 1. shade, 2. very cold water and lots of it and 3. air conditioning. There are hordes of tourists here, despite the raging heat and mass exodus of Italians. I knew the country took the month of August off, but I am genuinely amazed (and really quite impressed) at all the little paper signs on windows stating temporary closure for all of August. 'We' will all return in September. And life will go on.

But we are here, already looking forward to what life as usual will feel like, when the tourists start to dissipate and the stores and restaurants reopen. Students will come from all over, we will have a permanent address, cram our brain with Italian verbs and prepositions---and sink right into this new life.

And you know I couldn't leave an Italian post without including something about food, so... Food highlights so far: gelato, granita, watermelon chunks on a stick, the abundance of chianti, shots of limoncello with a nearby restaurant owner, good espresso, homemade ravioli, a butcher. I say the latter with braced enthusiasm: I don't yet know where we will land, and therefore which outdoor market we will frequent (I look forward to loving my more permanent butcher). But we did find one, and promptly bought some pork loin beautifully wrapped in bacon... dinner in. We loved it. Salute!

Laon, France

One day, we rode 72 kms (our longest at the time). The very next day we rode 50 km with a handful of hills, the last [800 meters] of which was uphill. A true hilltown climb---up and up---to the cathedral and fortified city on top: Laon.

Riding TO Laon included the utter disbelief that when a map says 'signed, paved biking roads' indeed they may not be (see photo of James on the 'cycling path'). Then the flies. Oh the flies. Better call them larvae because they are miniscule and stick all over you while you cycle (on another day, I relinquished myself to the fact that I was a human size piece of flypaper, peddling between open wheat fields---it was an attempt at good humor). Oh, and it was Bastille Day in France so everything was closed and it felt like we were cycling from one ghost town to another (where do they all go to celebrate Bastille Day? Especially when you need a croissant or a toilet?). For the record: the ride to Laon was great, but the last 10 kms---not so great. And being super tired from two longish days of riding plus flies and hills and no scooby snacks... not good ingredients for the pudding (so to speak).

But we made it. And the best is, well making it. The pride you allow yourself [with definitive gusto], that indeed you did climb that darn hill. You made it to the gorgeous cathedral, and when it was time for dinner you found an outdoor seat that was a couch, which was some such slice of heaven.

One more worst of Laon, before I bring out the bests: the hotel. Yucko. Hey when you are on a budget you have to even out the curve. The average doesn't just create itself. So on the low side was a budget hotel in Laon (granted we have been in a few budget hotels that were shockingly impressive, in which we would have parked our bikes for a week... Pierrefonds, France, comes to mind). And it was dusky and dark and dank, with carpeted walls and peeling paint, flickering lights, a dark spiral staircase with long really old dark velvet green curtains whose only job was to collect decades of dust... it all felt... haunted if not entombed. And the glaring streetlight out the window didn't help. But sleepless nights didn't deter us. There was good to be found in Laon.

And the best part was that the best finds were happenstance. The cathedral was gorgeous, the doorframe alone caused us to pause and stare, and stammer out loud about all the apostles, the statues and the animals at their feet. Which was which and who was who and how amazing this cathedral was centuries ago when it stood high and proud and ornate above the valley below. (Apparently cathedrals were built at great heights---specifically for better communications with heaven).

And we walked the parameter of the hilltop, viewing a monestary that finally stood ramshackled, from its most recent war-time blows. Beautiful, but currently deserted. We found leaning towers and cools walls, and ran across one of the official temples of the Knights of Templars. And we found butterflies, gazillions of butterflies. We now recognize a 'butterfly bush' when we see one. And last but most certainly not least: the best chocolate croissant. It may not mean much to you, but we have had our share of chocolate croissants on this trip. Now that I think about it, they pretty much replaced our stroopwafels (not by intention, we miss our stroopwafels---but as soon as we crossed from Netherlands to Belgium, stroopwafels were no where to be found). So once we started cycling in Belgium we started having chocolate croissants as our mid-cycle snack.

So you can be sure when we sunk our teeth into the best-ever chocolate croissants from a tiny little bakery tucked along a thickly cobbled street in Laon, we were delighted... that we were close enough to turn around and buy a second. They were perfectly memorable. As was Laon, with all of its bests and worsts---because average wouldn't be average without the bests and worsts. It would just be boring.

And the next day, we started by cycling down hill!

Eating, Sleeping and Pooping

Nothing can prepare you for having your first child. No matter how much advice you receive, or books that you read, there is really no preparation for the real thing. Then, your newborn child arrives and everything changes: your orientation, desires and, of course, the patterns of daily life. I recall that when our first child arrived, I was amazed how much our lives were regulated by 3 simple activities: eating, sleeping and pooping. I don’t mean to sound crude, but that is reality with a baby. Any failure to address these matters at the time of a baby’s immediate need (and I mean any), was met with urgent crying, whining and/or unimaginable odors which would infiltrate your environs. But, of course, your kids eventually grow up.

Ironically, we have re-entered this stage in our lives with our current 'trip of a lifetime' cycling across Europe. Albeit, our children are now older, 12 and 13 years, but the patterns of our daily life on the road have, again, become consumed by these 3 simple life activities: eating, sleeping and pooping. In lieu of crying, we now get flares of anger (completely normal for our adolescent boys, not acceptable for a parent), occasional whining and yes, the odors still persist.

Compound these daily activities with foreign cultural norms, which we sometimes don't realize and other times forget. For instance, nothing is open on a Sunday, which creates a serious problem when we forget to buy food ahead of time (hey kids, we’re going to practice ‘fasting’ ahead of Lent this year…). And, of course, the concept of ‘paying’ to use the bathroom is literally a foreign concept (anyone have 2 quarters for 5 dollars? I mean 5 euros).

While cycling across the European country-side our kids have come to appreciate these “basic needs”. Good to plan for, important to meet, and without which people may turn crabby, hungry, tired, or constipated. But sometimes we miss a beat, and as every parent would say, it is a “character-building” opportunity. And really, that is why we are doing this trip: to build character---even if it means we (aka parents) might have to run into the bushes on the side of the road too.

Tour de France... kindof

Here I sit, in France. We are just a few days into this country; with a few castles, a handful of croissants and miles of stone walls under our belts. Today we arrived at a bed and breakfast---our first one with a pool. The weather, despite it being mid July, has been sketchy at best. Looming charcoal clouds, quick but torrential downpours, and a few hefty headwinds while we cycle to our next destination. But then again, if you have been watching the Tour de France, you would see some of that same said weather. (And quite frankly, it might be better cycling weather than boiling hot sun? No complaints, really. We figure the sun will come when it comes).

And actually, if you have been watching The Tour, you have seen much of what we have seen while cycling across this northeast quadrant of France: quaint little towns, buzzing by patisseries, gorgeous green countryside and field upon field of corn, green leaf lettuce, or wheat (either just cut or dry and waving and waiting). Though unlike the tour, we have no car to rapidly change our flat, adjust our seat or provide us with water when we are empty. There are no cheers other than those from our own team of four. But that is enough: if we learn to cheer adequately and increasingly for one another... this whole amazing---and sometimes trying---trip will be worth the risk of leaving jobs and spending our savings.

And we all agree: there is something SO COOL about cycling across France at the SAME TIME as the Tour de France. And we hope to catch a genuine, bare-eyed visual of the Tour de France itself, in Paris just days from now.

It has become our habit to cycle, land at our destination, rest and regroup or grab a snack and shower then [if TV is provided in our residence-of-the-day] watch The Tour. It is on right now, in fact. They have 106 kms to go; and today we only cycled 28. All hills, up and down, up and down from Coucy le Chateau Auffrique to Ambleny (FR). Our longest was a few days ago, we reached a [leg-roaring, attitude stretching] 72 kms. The last 800 meters were uphill to the fortress on the top of the hill in Laon, France. (Makes me think of your tshirt, Jim, that James adores, a take off from the usual "what doesn't kill you makes you stronger," but rather straight to the point: "I am not dead yet.")

Quick recap: our tiny tour de la France has been from Vervins to Laon, from Coucy le Chateau Auffrique to Ambleny (where we are today), then we will go Pierrefonds and to Senlis and finally to Paris.

(p.s. sorry no photos, cannot upload recent France photos due to the awful internet connection; will add them in a few days).

a tribute to Montana (USA)

My boys are cycling, side by side, day after day, discussing their next trip to Montana. That isn't to say they aren't enjoying Holland's trails and cathedrals, cobblestone and cheese. It is just that some of their best memories are from their cumulative visits to the state of Montana (grandpa and grandma's cabin in the woods).

And cycling through woods and smelling diesel (in Montana: tractors, four-wheelers, snowmobiles) causes their brains to jump to their favorite pile of memories. And this week, their cousins are going there without them: to the greatest place on earth.

Every summer, our extended family (Janelle's side) gathers for a week in the woods. There is a tiny lake, a river full of fish, kayaks, a fort, bike trails and a barn full of tools and knick-knacks to build anything and everything. Aunts and uncles are always filling you with yummy snacks and treats. You can swim, paddle, eat, light fireworks, build go-carts and boats, experiment with fire-flaming arrows and tree-size sling shots. What is not to love?

So while we are on the vacation of our LIVES---cycling from Amsterdam to Paris, landing in London then Florence---we are still missing this ever-important, most memorable, cousin-filled week of family, fun and freedom.

And in missing this year, the boys are already beginning plans for next year. Which I think might include building go-karts. But their latest idea to add to the nostalgia and general coolness of this magical place is to build a ropes course. Or in the very least, a zip line.

On our cycle rides, we have passed a few quite cool playgrounds. Not the kiddie stuff necessarily, but structures that are fun and interesting for all ages. Rope bridges, a pile of tire swings all meeting like spokes in a wheel, and a rope bridge that seemed to spiral upward. Which, if you are a boy with Montana in your back pocket---a place to make outdoor dreams come true---these playgrounds unleash the imagination.

Getting Along 24x7…Yeah Right!

For the past several years my professional career has necessitated a lot of long hours, and too much travel – unfortunately at the expense of time with my family. That was a big motivator to take this ‘trip of a lifetime’ - cycling as a family from Amsterdam to Paris.

In response to our decision to leave it all behind, we got some familiar responses:
(1) “That is awesome, have a great time (can I fit in your pannier?)”
(2) “You’re nuts, why would you give up your career and house to do that?”
(3) “Do you think you can really handle being together 24x7?”

I had expected the first two responses, but the third response---I hadn’t considered. I didn’t think it would be a challenge. Think again.

We are a family of go-getters. All of us set goals, work and play hard, live life with passion and have strong opinions. Back home in Seattle we had busy lives balancing work/school with extracurricular sports and activities. As a result we thirsted for time together as a family, and enjoyed dinners, games, sports (soccer/cycling/skiing) or a weekend escape to Orcas Island. We really like each other and have fun simply being together.

Fast forward 1 month into our ‘trip of a lifetime’ and we’ve now been together for 750+ hours straight. If you consider that on a regular weekday in Seattle we might have just 4 hours together---you can imagine that the transition of being together 24/7 can be a little overwhelming. Consider this mix: I am a Type A former CEO, my wife holds an MBA and Culinary Degree and has equally strong opinions (think Courtney Cox on Friends), and our kids are budding adolescent boys who need our feedback less and less (12 and 13 years old).

Yes, there have been fireworks on a few occasions, but, somehow we’re making it through. And, I am happy to say that we are settling into a rhythm of sorts. A few lessons we’ve learned thus far:

(1) James (myself), the now omnipresent father, is recognizing that his role in the family is transitioning from making decisions, to asking for input. In Seattle, I was the “fixer” of things (particularly when our kids were young). Now, I am working on being more engaging and letting others take the lead. I did give up “leading” the troops when cycling (in an effort to allow the boys to learn how to read and navigate from maps). But, I am working on translating that to other areas of our lives too. Frankly, our kids are so dang smart – sometimes it is humbling and hard not to feel useless (a tough thing for fathers). ;)

(2) Janelle deserves an award for living out of 2 panniers, keeping everyone happy without a refrigerator, and “keeping the peace” among her 3 boys (myself included) who are prone to share differences of opinion. Janelle is “low-maintenance” – thankfully – otherwise this trip would not be possible. She has come to realize that her boys get ‘crabby’ when they are hungry, so keeping a stash of stroop waffles (referred to as Scooby Snacks) around is a good idea (we refer to this stomach-filling as ‘taming the tiger.’).

Notwithstanding family dynamics, Janelle’s biggest challenge has been containing her desire to write everyday given the lack of time and connectivity (despite James’ exhaustive efforts to provide her with Internet access---not even throwing money at Internet Service Providers in Holland seems to work---but more on that topic later). Amazingly, Janelle has continued to maintain www.talkoftomatoes.com and start www.familyfrolics.com while traveling abroad on bicycles.

(3) Anthony is a natural leader and budding plaintiff’s attorney (at age 13), so naturally he and I have clashed on matters involving navigation and safety. I have since given up navigational control (while retaining a right to request clarification), and turned over all “locking of bikes” to Anthony. Anthony recognizes his parents’ attempts to retain control are futile, that he actually often knows more than we do (scary!). Anthony has recently demonstrated some “Dutch-ness” with respect to his willingness to bike ‘suicide’ – down the wrong way on a one-way street. But, still retains a stern respect for safety, evidenced by his refusal to cross an intersection without a green light (testing the patience of the rest of his family who have already ridden ahead). ;)

(4) Caleb is a competitor at heart and passionate voetball player (that is Dutch for soccer). Caleb has managed to befuddle his parents in multiple card games, and has recently ‘crossed the line’ by inventing a new game called “Snickelfritz” (thank you Isabel) – a combination of sorts of Chicago Rummy, Speed and Nerts. While Caleb is ready to play cards at every meal, he’s come to realize that his parents can actually win a game or two (even if we need reminders of the rules every game). Caleb’s seemingly boundless enthusiasm to play soccer, including juggling, kicking, passing on every walk, every street and in every piazza, is welcome fun, but can test the patience of his brother and parents when ‘culture’ has been our intended focus (for an hour or two?). Caleb tolerates his family’s pleas for downtime by redirecting his efforts to his sketchbook – a fantastic outlet for his creative energies.

Yes, there have been a few bumps along the path as we’ve invaded each other’s lives and space. 24x7 is definitely an adjustment – even on a ‘trip of lifetime.’ However, we’ve managed to settle into a good groove and find opportunities to support one another. Above all, communication has been key. In fact, we probably over-communicate: we’re never short on opinions on what to do next, or how to solve a problem. But we are learning to listen better and compromise more.

The biggest challenge for me, as a father, is letting go and watching our boys transition into young men who are ready to conquer the world. (Cheesy, I know, but true). But, I take solace in the fact that as they become map-reading masters on this trip, they will be better equipped to navigate their lives going forward.

from Gouda to Delft

Actually, from Gouda to Delft was two days, not one. We rode from Gouda through the Kinderdijk---the most famous windmill tour of the world. It was crazy how many windmills there were (19 in just that area). And fun to try to count them all. We cycled over smaller canals, raced to beat the looming dark clouds and even rode a few small ferries---the kind that leave every 5 minutes to go back and forth across a wider canal.

The first night we landed in Oudekerk a/d Ijssel, in the home of a lovely couple who themselves took up cycling after the age of 50. They had books and tales, and had clocked mileage that made us look like we were kicking up our legs on a teeter-totter and not much more.

The second morning we enjoyed a lovely in-home breakfast [we are growing accustomed to Dutch breakfasts: [a selection of] bread with options of jam, butter, peanut butter, chocolate spread and sprinkles, ham and/or cheese, coffee/orange juice/tea and a soft-boiled egg. Sometimes fruit and yogurt make an appearance. No complaints by the way; we are loving the consistency and flavors, all the homemade jam, the fabulous Gouda cheese, the non-sugary yogurt...]. Then we shoved off and rode to Delft. Day 1 was 35 miles, day 2 just 30 when we finally arrived in Delft.

En route to Delft we had a lovely picnic lunch--something that is becoming a habit for our riding days (quick pit-stop at the grocer to load up on drinks and sandwich makings). James had planned our drop on a bench in front of windmills (ah the benefits of research and travel tips). It was story-book material. We ran across packs of ducks and swans, and when stopping for a photo op, they swarmed Caleb and I.

Our ride toward Delft included one of my favorite stretches so far, an extensive green space of grasses and trees, white picket bridges over canals and [what felt like] our own personal bike path. We enjoyed a little speed and silence in the most tranquil of settings. And always if you peeked into the canals, you would see swans and ducks with their ducklings. Perhaps it isn't such a stretch when James peers into his mirror and I reassure him: yes all your ducks are here. (When it is windy especially, we ride in a tight little duck-like format.)

from Utrecht to Gouda

So many observations and experiences are tucked into each bike ride. When you are covering 25 miles and passing through quaint towns, by canals, through farmland and forests... there is a lot to see, hear, think about and remember. And I am finding that if I don't write down my findings from one trip, it begins to seep into a collective memory of rides... and I may forget if I was passing from Alkmaar to Harlaam or just arrived in Utrecht or Gouda. And where was that great market? The one where we bought the cheese and croissants and met that nice lady? Remember those adorable baby goats?

So you see, writing to you helps me keep it all straight.

TODAY we rode from Utrecht to Gouda. On our way we cycled through a town called Montfoort and landed for lunch in Oudewater, most notably to stop and visit the witches' wag. It is a museum/small building tribute to a place where 'witches were weighed.'

There was a sad time in history where individuals [mostly women] were accused of being witches; being weighed was a measure used to prove their guilt or innocence. Witches capable of flying and trickery were believed to be lighter than they appeared. While many scales were purposefully rigged, this scale in Oudewater was famous for being fair. It saved many, many lives.

After being weighed... we snagged our picnic lunch and found an outdoor table in a cobblestone square (Oudewater). Since we are aiming for a tight daily food budget, we have found it infinitely useful to grab our lunch from the grocers on our way out of town. Then, when hunger strikes we are poised with sandwiches and drinks, novelty snacks and fruit. If we find an outdoor market (which we often do), we might pick up some pastries for a mid-ride treat. Lunch was great; and we tried syrup wafels or stroopwafels and fell in love.

[Note: stroopwafels originated in Gouda, and are two waffle looking wafers smacked together with a syrup/brown sugar/butter/cinnamon. They are sweet and round and thin and soft and yummy.]

We arrived in Gouda and were immediately in love with its canals, homes, restaurants and center plaza (the center plaza was large enough for the boys to practice long soccer kicks---we spent multiple rounds of hanging out in the plaza for just that reason). After touching base at the bed & breakfast (with wi-fi!!) we tromped out the door to find dinner. We LOVE the location of our little couple-night abode. It is right in town. We found a lovely meal (AND we are getting much better at reading/understanding Dutch menue!) and then the boys played soccer in the square.

Oh, and about learning Dutch menu terms... mom, dad: you said if I was a boy you were going to name me 'Kip.' Shall I assume you did not know that in Dutch this means 'chicken'?

My Top 5 Favorite Memories from May....

We’re just a little over 2 weeks into this trip, and we’ve already had a ton of fantastic experiences. (BTW: “Fantastic” is my word for the trip, because it seems to describe everything for me).

Anyhow, here are my top 5 favorite memories from our European expedition during the month of May.

5. Eating in Amsterdam. We had several amazing food experiences in Amsterdam, namely pastries, coffee, desserts and Dutch pancakes (which is essentially another dessert). Pastries are fresh everyday and tantalizing to the eye and palette. Coffee (Illy espresso) was thoroughly enjoyable on bright sunny mornings with Janelle at our favorite café. Dessert was the highlight after an amazing meal at our best meal of the trip thus far at Brix (definitely a ‘must go’ local restaurant). And, of course, Dutch pancakes (thinly sliced apples, thin pancakes, powdered sugar and a reduced apple syrup). All amazing food experiences, particularly given that all were within 1 block of our apartment in the Jordaan.

4. Going into a working Dutch windmill. Unexpectedly, we had the opportunity to climb up into, through and around a working Dutch windmill in Schermerhorn. Most windmills in Holland do not operate daily, and many are also privately owned. However, in Schermerhorn, we were able to see all the inner-workings and mechanics of a windmill first hand. Of course, it involved climbing up 3 stories on old ladders, and crawling on all fours underneath huge gears and shafts, which had all kind of warnings in Dutch (something like “touch this and lose your hand or die”). No way we’d ever get this close to something so interesting and mechanical back home. Most intriguing was the corkscrew water wheel, which moved water from the lower dijk to the upper dijk (that is dike in Dutch).

3. Cycling from Amstelveen to Hilversum. We have put in over 200km cycling thus far, and by far the most interesting day of cycling was also our longest (about 48km / 30 miles). We started in south Amsterdam, then made our way past AJAX stadium (a UFO space ship of a soccer stadium – pretty cool), then along the Vecht River towards Hilversum. The ride included several windmills, forts, animals (cows, sheep, goats, geese, rabbits, horses and all other kinds of birds), a bike ferry and of course canals, canals and canals. We also had the pleasure cycling through a surreal environment among reeds and thickets on a single track dirt travel for about 5 km from Nederhorst Den Berg to Ankeveen.

2. Self-guided Canal trip in Amsterdam. One of our themes on this trip is to have the boys lead us whenever possible while cycling (they each have their own map case and alternate days navigating). Same was true of course for a canal ride through Amsterdam. We rented a small aluminum boat, loaded up on wine, bread and cheese, prayed for good weather, headed to the boat rental, and then handed the engine controls to the boys. It was great to see the boys gladly take the controls of the boat, then guide us through the canals of Amsterdam, while Janelle and I simply indulged in the scenery, food, wine and tried to encourage the boys to avoid any boat accidents. ;)

1. Watching the boys play soccer in Nigtevecht and jump into a canal. By the far one of the best decisions we had on this trip was to have each boy pack a soccer ball (visibly secured on the back of their bikes with a bungee-style net). The balls immediately invite play at every town square, any patch of grass, church piazzas and fill the void whenever there is waiting involved. Such as waiting for James and Janelle to finish a glass of Sambuca (after dinner drink of course), which led to a full out game in the Haarlem town square with about 8 other Dutch children. They were the entertainment of the night.

However, that experience was trumped by our recent wait for a bike-only ferry in Nigtevecht this past week. We had an extended wait (since the ferry driver was “off” for a 2-hour lunch), but no worries, there was a small patch of grass (10m x 20m), 3-4 other kids just off from school, sunshine and a soccer ball. Bikes were parked, Janelle and James went searching in the small town for a bottle of wine and chocolate to kill the time (gladly assisted by a local Dutch resident who rode their bike with us to the store), then returned to find an all-out makeshift game of soccer at the ferry dock (alongside this picturesque canal).

Language was no barrier, and soon other kids in the town of Nigtevecht (about 1500 residents) learned the “Americans” were at the ferry dock. As a result, the game doubled in size and began to involve jumping into the canal if a kid was nutmegged (in soccer terms that means if the ball is passed unexpectedly between your legs by your opponent). It was surreal and an absolute pleasure to witness.

The ferry driver returned to work, but we elected to delay our departure across the canal another hour to allow the fun to continue. With 15km of cycling ahead of us, we did eventually have to depart (sadly). But, the kids exchanged emails and then a couple kids elected to swim across the 50m canal (with us on the bike ferry) just for the sake of it.

We had several goodbyes from across the canal as we climbed back on our bikes and continued our journey. But, this “Dutch experience” left an impression on all of us and certainly made memories for a lifetime.

it makes me think of you.

Keith: this picture is for you. James thought you would like the use of pipes for table and benches. And in front of a fine restaurant, no less.

Lily Kate: I paid big bucks for a haircut, then cut it again myself. Like Auntie like niece. I miss you.

Dad: the doves. Everywhere I hear doves. In cities all over, topping churches and houses, perched wherever we seem to pause. It causes me to smile. We grew up with their cooing; what made you choose doves for our home?

Grandma Velt: I have so much more to say to you… you always had a beautiful collection of handkerchiefs. I started my collection---today---with a red [Dutch] handkerchief, spotted with blue flowers.

Kurt & Maluhia: the colors! A guy walked by with bright orange pants, and another in green. I always think of Europeans as being dressed to the hilt in subdued blacks, grays, whites and the like. But the Dutch wear spots and dots, colors and flowers and carry bright umbrellas. Just today I saw a rough looking gentleman ride by on a bike… with white-dotted pink panniers. Love it. Bright are you!

Maggie: You would love all the shoes and boots, the smartly worn scarves and the well-suited jackets. Dressing up a notch just looks better. I love that about you. Even if you are in a rush, lacking sleep or otherwise preoccupied, you still manage to look put-together.

Grandma Van: this trip makes me appreciate your love for flowers, your penchant for peppermints (the Dutch have such a sweet tooth!) and your infamous sweet rice with a dollop of butter and brown sugar. I read a book on Dutch food and it actually mentioned the combination.

Mom: your cupboards? I see them everywhere. Those tiles with Dutch boys and girls, Delft inspired motifs and playful blue-and-white lace, are alive and well in the Netherlands. I know I grew up looking at them, but seeing them cluttering the shops in the form of towels, magnets, napkins, etc., makes me appreciate the synergy that much more.

cycling from Edam to Alkmaar

A 25 mile bike ride today. What is so great, is that in the end when you finally arrive at your destination it feels so good. It is euphoric, the tired but good feeling of cycling and all the things you saw and experienced along the way. Let me say this: we are sleeping really, really well.

We took our time, shoved off from Edam with a basket full of croissants and lunch baguettes. The sky was clear and the temperature pleasant.

We passed cows, sheep, swans and goats. And I notice after passing quite a few fields, that late spring shows itself in all the little newborns. We see baby sheep, baby ducks, baby swans, baby cows and on future rides added baby rabbits, baby chickens, baby horses. Spring is in the air; and we are happy.

We stopped for a picnic break along one of the canals, and spent over an hour in a perfectly quaint little town, De Rijp. Caleb and Anthony juggled in a tiny square, James read his book and I took a brisk walk to case the place. A few photos and a present-for-mom later, we were back in our saddles, ready to roll.
We arrived in Alkmaar, and landed in our little hotel (no wi-fi again; it has been about 5 days of no wi-fi and Internet cafes only allow you to use their public computers. James is researching options). We walked into town, walked a few streets, enjoyed a nice Greek dinner and then back to the hotel where we all slid into sleep quite readily.