2.27.2010

Why it is WORTH living in Europe!

Many of you who have lived overseas could readily relate to my prior post - It is a PAIN to live in Europe! Trust me... However, I did get some rebuttals and a few friends questioning our decision to live in Italy and asking, "If it is such a pain, then why stay?" I am not going to gloss over the PAINs that we have experienced, but as I reiterated, much of it has been self-imposed.

I've learned that I should not set expectations but rather look to experience local culture. That simple adjustment makes a world of difference in terms of reducing frustrations (not necessarily eliminating them) . More importantly, when I find myself concentrating on the cultural experience, then I can better appreciate what this local culture values (versus what I am looking for). Additionally, it provides fabulous introspective opportunities to gauge the lessons learned.

Here's my Top Ten reason why IT IS worth living in Italy:

1. Pace/Rhythm. Italy is a Mediterranean country and naturally the pace of life is more laid back. For someone who consistently worked 50+ hours per week, putting the brakes on and adjusting to a slower pace of life was a welcome relief. More importantly, the Italian pace of walking, conversing and appreciating things made me more cognizant of the different rhythms of days, weeks and seasons. All of sudden, I was paying more attention to the light at different times of the day, the best weeks of November when new olive oil is harvested, and enjoying the subtle changes at vendors and streets for different holidays and events. In Italy the pace is imposed. It is not a personal choice, but rather a cultural shift - you must slow down. And, I've come to realize that is a good thing; life is not going anywhere. Non c'e fretta.

2. Artisan Food/Wine. Americans are consumed with quantities of calories, fats, carbohydrates, sugars, blah, blah, blah! We eat food that is shipped to us from all over the world, without any appreciation of seasonality (bananas in February?). The Italians are at the opposite end of the spectrum. Italians are consumed with the quality of good food and wine, which means local, artisanal foods and wines made by certain families for generations and only available in-season (when flavor is at its peak). Ironically, artisanal food and wine is local and organic - thereby more sustainable, supporting local producers, and reducing environmental impacts of shipping. And, it simply tastes extraordinary! Tomatoes ripened on the vine under the Tuscan sun, olives bursting until the point they are harvested in late Fall, and Chianti wines uncorked when they are 'ready' (NO preservatives either!). Seasonal variety necessitates natural diversity in our eating habits, while also inspiring and challenging the cook as well! (Note, I got lucky here - Janelle is a fantastic chef!)

3. People/Vitality. Being 2nd generation Italian, I am biased: the Italians live thier lives with vitality (I think this is true across Europe generally). Attend just one professional soccer match, calcio, anywhere in Europe (or at a pub) and you will see just how passionate and emotional Europeans can be about kicking a ball. Ask any Florentine their opinion about which Italian city makes the best Cinghiale Ragu and you will get multiple opinions. Our hometown, Seattle, is always politically correct (rule #1: do not offend anyone); Italy is at the opposite end of the spectrum (rule #1: express yourself).

4. Art/Design. Florence is known as the birthplace of the Renaissance. Many of the great painters, sculptors, architects, poets, philosophers, mathematicians and political thinkers are from Florence and its surrounding communities. A few you may have heard of: Michelangelo, Dante, Da Vinci, Galileo, Fibonacci, the Medici, Petrarch, Machiavelli, Lippi, Brunelleschi, and countless others. Italy's influence in terms of art and design are far-reaching. However, beyond the obvious and priceless works, Italian artistry and design permeates throughout their daily lives in ordinary places: a basket display of vegetables, a collection of scarves, a stone pattern for a walkway, a wrought iron gate, a sculpted garden, and, of course, beautiful florentine paper. All are simple, elegant designs that are timeless works of art in their own rite. It is a pleasure to soak it up on a daily basis.

5. History/Timelessness. Intrinsic to European culture is a sense of history. As an American who was born and raised on the West Coast, our concept of "old" is entirely different than the Italians. In Italy, most buildings are centuries old and foundations in historic centers date back several millenia (e.g. 400 BC for several Etruscan hill towns). The timelessness of the Italian cityscape is evidenced in the ammalgamation of buildings, twisting streets, archways, windows and stairways. It is a constant reminder that many, many, many generations were living here before you. Life is always moving ahead and the sun will rise tomorrow (despite your problems, real or perceived). As a result, this historical context naturally inspires a degree of introspection (at least it does for me!).

6. Prayer/Peace. In the US prayer is something deliberate and personal, which I, admittedly, must remind myself to do regularly. In Italy prayer is a part of the daily routine, integrated into the fabric of the society when walking to work or during the evening passegiata. Chapels, statues, crosses and other religious symbols are everywhere. For some, it is numbing (I am sure). For others, myself included, it is a constant reminder of thankfulness. On our routine morning walk, Janelle and I stop by a chapel on the Arno each day - a brief opportunity to give thanks for our blessings. However, what often moves me in that little chapel is the continuous stream of individuals who stop on their walk to work to pray and light a candle (perhaps for a sick relative, a lost job, or a thanksgiving for an answered prayer). Regardless of your personal religious views, an opportunity to be quiet and peaceful on a daily basis is healthy.

7. Natural Beauty. Coming from Seattle, we were already spoiled to live in one of the most beautiful places in the world. Seattle has a crisp, raw and rugged beauty that reminds you that nature is powerful. Italy offers a completely different sort of natural beauty. Italy has a more serene, tranquil and alluring beauty that breathes of romance and history (certainly an aphrodisiac!). The rolling hills, cyprus trees, vineyards, and olive groves bathed in Tuscany's golden sunlight are simply indescribable.

8. Culture Mashing. Europe is proximate to many diverse cultures: the world is literally at your doorstep. People from Northern Europe, Eastern Europe, Russia, Northern Africa, the Middle East and Asia all flock to Italy. In fact, we could fly to many of those destinations in 2 hours or less! While Seattle is a small cosmopolitan attracting a variety of visitors; it is a stark contrast to Europe. During our travels, we have enjoyed listening to the diversity of languages, including those who can readily speak 3 or 4 languages (the Dutch!). It reminds us that English, while pervasive, is not the only language on our planet. Investing in another language and culture is an exercise of learning and respect. I am so pleased that my entire family is learning such a useful language - Italiano!

9. Festivities. Europe does seem to have a constant succession of holidays throughout the entire year. In addition to religious traditions (All Souls, Advent, Christmas, Epiphany, Lent, Easter), there are a multitude of festivals to celebrate the seasonality of different foods (wine grapes, olives, truffles, chocolate) and historic events (past battles among city-states, unification of the country). Because our apartment is literally down the street from Piazza Santa Croce, we have been near the pulse of all Italian festivities in Florence. The Italians do live with vitality and they do know how to celebrate (until 2:00am+). This ongoing calendar events is enticing to any outsider who wants to experience Italian culture. In addition, many festivals are educational and further connect you with the local community (churches, farmers, artists and history). I love it!

10. Carpe Diem. Perhaps the most gratifying aspect of living in Italy is the sense of seizing the moment and enjoying life to its fullest. Our lives are short! While it is important to educate, invest and plan ahead; Italy has reminded us that it is wise to slow down and taste, smell, observe, laugh and enjoy.

Janelle and I recognize how fortunate we have been to live in Europe. Granted, it did take a lot of planning and required many sacrifices to facilitate the opportunity (selling our home, cars, etc.), but we have NO regrets.

Living in Europe has been WORTH the effort: it has been a life-changing experience for our entire family, it will forever shape our sons' perspectives of the world, and better inform all of our decisions as we move forward with our lives. I am 100% confident that neither Janelle or myself will ever miss a nickel when we are elderly and look back with affection on our European experience together. You only live once. Carpe diem!

2.22.2010

It is a PAIN to live in Europe! Trust me...

Okay, let's set aside all the glamour, ectasy and orgasmic pleasures that Italy has to offer. Yes, unbelievable experiences do abound in Italy making it all "worth it". Worth what you ask? Worth the pain. Yes, pain in the arse! At times living in Italy (and most other EU countries) is painful. Our American expectations in terms of service, efficiency and responsiveness are simply incongruent with European lifestyles at times.

Here is just a trivial sample of what you might experience when living abroad in Europe (especially Italy!):

1. "Not possible" - get used to the phrase all across Europe. Whether asking for a "free" glass of water out of the tap, or simply a small plate (for the bread and oil). This is the most common English expression we heard across the European continent. It has since become a joke for our family, but an ongoing reality too.

2. "Come back later" - in other words they elected not to do the work, don't know the answer, or simply forgot about it while they were on their smoke break, coffee break, or lunch break (or any other "break" they elect to take randomly during the day). The best part about it, is that an entire public office will take a "break" at the same time, instead of rotating in an orderly fashion. As a result, all work comes to a grinding halt when everyone decides to have a smoke and cup of espresso at 1000a, 1200p, 200p and 400p. ;)

3. "Take a number" - means start the waiting process for countless hours of sitting in line after line after line, only to get one or both of the responses above. This is particularly humorous when the Italian consulate in the USA has been so efficient, completing, processing and stamping things (like VISAs) in a matter of days, contrasted with months of waiting in Italy for a permesso (permit to stay). Oh yeah, we had snow 4 weeks ago, that caused a back up! (Honestly, we heard that one too!).

4. "You don't want that" - what do you mean? It is right here on the menu, I would like to have this glass of wine with this entree. Regardless of your pleadings if the Italian waiter doesn't want you to have a glass of Pinot Noir with your Pork, then guess what, they will bring you what they decide. Really! Remember in Europe, all the cultures have a "right" way of doing things, and a "wrong" way of doing things. If you are American and make the "wrong" selection, they will simply correct it for you. (But, what if I like Pinot Noir with Pork? Too bad.)

5. "Che sara sara" or "What will be will be". All the Italians complain about the incredible bureaucracy and complacency of government at every level. Yet, all of the Italians seem to play an instrumental role in actually upholding and maintaining their part of the bureaucracy. "What can I do?" they'll plead; I say "do your part, be more efficient!" "Why, Giacomo, there is no rush?"

6. "They are on holiday." This was my favorite response from local street vendors when I asked why certain shops were closed mid-week in January. Well its holiday of course! What holiday you ask? Well in addition to the 1-month that Italy shuts down for August, and the 20+ other paid holidays, saints' days, religious festivals and ceremonies, there is another 1-month holiday in Italy for January-ish to February-ish. Not so much business then, so why not shut down? Really!

7. "You can't drive there!" - and oh by the way, they're sending you a 150 Euro ticket in the mail. What!?! Really, it is true. The concept of ZTL (or zona traffica limita) exists throughout much of Europe for many cities to curb traffic in the inner cities and reduce congestion. A great idea - if they were MARKED! The problem is that too often what the "locals" know, is what the guide books and namely your GPS does not - the actual boundaries and hours of the ZTL. Even if the boundary of the ZTL is marked, then the hours may be incorrect (as is the case in Florence). Thus, if you drive at the times marked on signage, you'll still get a ticket (because you didn't know better). Ugh! (Note, one of our American friends relayed he received almost 600 Euros in fines for 1 circuituous trip through the ZTL). Watch out!

8. "Take a photo with me!" - but it will COST you money! Even though the characters, mimes and medieval soldiers all over Europe at major destinations are clearly standing in PUBLIC places, there is an unwritten rule that if you take your picture with one of them, then pay up! Seriously. Otherwise, expected to accosted and ridiculed by all the play-actors on the street.

9. "It's not time to eat." - this is perhaps my favorite response midday when traveling with 2 teenage boys. American concepts of restaurants being open during the day simply don't apply across much of Europe. You eat lunch between 1200p - 200p. Dinner is from 700p - 1100p. That's it. If you stay too long at a museum, try to look at one more church, visit one more shop, or stroll along just one more street, THEN you may just miss prescribed dining hours. If that happens, you're hungry and out of luck. Your best bet is a limp sandwich at a bar or street vendor. Ugh!

10. "That's a cover charge" - okay, thank God we are not required to TIP in Europe, because if you sit down anywhere, then expect to pay up to double the price for whatever you eat (coperto!). Sit down you ask? Yes, sit down and it will cost you 2x the price of standing at the bar to have a cup coffee ($2 v. $4), a croissant ($1.50 v. $3), or a Coke ($3 v. $6). Yes, that is $6 dollars to sit down and have a can of Coke!

For what it's worth, the above experiences sum up the most common misconceptions, mistakes and challenges that we have as Americans. As a culture, we Americans are generally pretty wound up and get agitated over little things. Myself included.

Somehow, most Europeans (especially the Italians) don't seem to be bothered by all these little nuances and challenges. They just go with the flow. Remember they are living within these same constructs too, so they're also dealing with ravenous teenage boys. It just requires a little planning ahead, street smarts, and a bit more care-free attitude.

Whereas I have had a tendency to get frustrated with non-compliant waiters and businesses closed midday, my wife has adapted incredibly well to this laissez-faire culture. Unlike myself (who has demonstrated too many Ross-like outbursts on Friends!), my wife Janelle has shed her Type-A tendencies (aka Monica on Friends!) to become a bit more cafe-free (aka Phoebe on Friends!). What a shift, but a healthy one at that.

Life is short she reminds me. Che sara! Sara!

2.19.2010

frolicking thursday: touring the Oltrarno

Huh? Well, I cannot frolic as well on Fridays without my partner in crime. James is in the states, following up on job leads---and so the boys and I are left up to our own devices.

Which means frolicking fridays just aren't the same. So I have replaced them with other-day frolics.

I frolicked thursday this past week. Which in its most elementary form means: I pushed myself out the door and never looked back. If there is one thing I have learned these past few months in Florence: I never regret walking out the door. There is so much to see and experience and notice.  

This is big coming from a home-body such as myself. I adore being home, cooking, being cozy, listening to music, eating a meal, organizing our lives, watching a movie or being online. But here and now, I experience so much and enjoy so immensely every time I step out my door.

This day wasn't particularly monumental. But it was relaxing, and peaceful and interesting. I am grateful for those feelings.

When I left the house, my first stop was my favorite new place for pastries: Rifrullo. It is a bar/cafe in Piazza San Niccolo, and it is always chock-full of people. It has that certain hum. This was a return visit, in which case I ate the same pastry I had enjoyed so much the first time: sfoglia. Blackberry heaven wrapped in puff pastry yumminess. And the coffee divine. I stood, smiled a few times to make up for my lack in language and consumed my pastry. Next up: walking.

I explored streets that I hadn't walked on, fell in love with this little cove in the Oltrarno and aimed for a museum. Which, incidentally, was closed. No matter, I kept walking on new streets and found cute cafes, overpriced pottery and hordes of antiques. I walked by a jewelry design school, peered into windows full of ornate silver pieces, nosed around sandwich shops and made my way to Santa Maria del Carmine. This church has uncannily high ceilings compared to its footprint---and is home to Branacci's chapel. Branacci is the name of the guy who funded the amazing frescoes lining the chapel; frescoes of Saint Peter's life were painted by Masolino, Massacio and Lippi. My favorite part of the viewing wasn't on the walls---it was the humming and sing-songing of a 2 year old french toddler (whose parents kept trying to get him to shush).

After the good pastry, the nose-following walk and fabulous frescoes, I headed home. One last stop for some verdura at a nearby stand (veggies), then I hoofed it back across the Ponte Vecchio and made it home just before the boys.

LinkWithin

Related Posts with Thumbnails